Anti-aging cosmetics are not innovative enough antioxidants

Researchers claim that antioxidants have long been used in cosmetic products anti-aging, but innovation in the formulations were so limited that none of the new ingredients did not render real influence on the market.

Researchers from the University of Porto analysed topical anti-aging agents, present in the main stores and pharmacies throughout Portugal between 2011 and 2018. Scientists have determined that the antioxidants usually used in anti-aging products to reduce the impact of oxidative stress of the skin, and also for the enrichment of endogenous protection system of the skin.

Analysis 287 products from more than 40 international brands, well known for its antioxidant activity, showed some clear trends in the use of ingredients. The researchers also noted that over the last seven years changes were few.

“Though the industry of cosmetics and personal care products based on science and is a highly innovative, new developments, do not seem to affect antioxidant components” – say the researchers. In their opinion, one reason for this may be the cost and time associated with the introduction of a new ingredient.

In addition, special attention was paid to the introduction of the antioxidant mixtures and not individual connections. “In most anti-aging cosmetic products anti-oxidant ability lies not in the one substance, and the Union of different antioxidants, which leads to multidimensional combinations of over-the-counter care products for the skin that aims to prevent clinical signs of aging”, – stated in the report.

Scientists have supported some compounds, for example, the combination of vitamin C and E provided good protection from UV radiation, and the stability of vitamin C was better if you mix it with water-based formulations. Hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants also work synergistically to protect both the lipid membrane and aqueous components from oxidative stress.

“The results obtained for combinations of antioxidants, will go on sale in 2018, confirms the fact that beauticians take into account the scientific data in the formulation of modern cosmetics,” say the researchers. However, in recent years we have released few new antioxidant ingredients. In particular, the tocopherol is the most widely used antioxidant in anti-aging products. So, derivative of this substance present in 86% of the analysed products. Moreover, 30% of them contain ascorbic acid or its derivatives. In 2018 there has been a marked increase in the use of Niacinamide and retinilpalmitat; retinoids has also been relatively widely used.

Scientists agree that the need for innovative antioxidants should be carefully considered in the light of recent advances in oxidative stress on the skin and understand the stability and effectiveness of antioxidants on the market.

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