Conference No. 6 — the beauty industry today


Today’s publication is very large. We have attempted to show how global changes have occurred in the beauty industry on the threshold of the third dozen of the new Millennium, having considered the beauty market from the point of view of producers and consumers. Tried to figure out what trends are promoting brands and how to follow themselves, and how all this affects us. Invite everyone who thinks about the practical use of cosmetics, following the trends or wondering where the posts about this. ???? read 15 minutes ????

What’s new?

The past decade globally has changed the rules of the game for producers. Changed needs and interests of customers, are affected by the rapid development of social networks and the transition of trade in online. We the consumers wanted more respect for themselves and were able to say so. In addition it was found that women need something more important perfect advertising images, for example, freedom of choice is real, and not just glossy.

Manufacturers badly battered by the winds of change in recent years. News feeds are not tired to tell us the details of bankruptcies and acquisitions of companies or expulsion, the creators of their own brands. Some fashion Houses fought for the sustainability age-old concepts and lost, others updated historical records revenue as the real surfers, riding the wave of change. Finally cut cosy restless the past from the present mobile device, which obliged one and all to obey the rules of adaptability.

Several major brands have redesigned their logos in the past. Although creative Director beautifully describes the authentic fonts and legends of creation, in the end it all boils down to one thing — how much contrast and looks clear logo on the screen of the mobile device. The recipe is simple: black and white, uncluttered, minimalist style.

I would like to say that globalization and unification affected only the logos, but it’s not. Style in fashion, design, online stores, packaging, and bottles — a lot was combed with a large-scale wave of world trend. Other trends have moved to a new level of speed: if before we were interested in the collections of the next season, today it is time to ask — what’s fashionable next Thursday?

Ugly fashion — we deserve it?

Yes, at some point, the traditional notions of style and beauty began to take strange forms. But the phenomenon of “ugly fashion” — not such a phenomenon. A couple of decades ago ray Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Martin Margiela showed us similar silhouettes and volumes. Then it was seen more as a revolution against stereotyped thinking. Today, vector is a bit different: how to be unique in a world that is saturated with diversity? The question now worries, buyers, manufacturers.

At some point the beauty industry began to realize that for successful development of business today is not enough big names and the ability to follow trends. You need to surprise the consumer, to he impressed to the depths of an instant purchase. Even conservative brands had to learn how to shock the audience.

A feature of our time in intense social activity and instant access to the desired information. It engages in the global trend of any person, not just the elite, as it was before. It is through the activity of social networks we can observe a rapid development of indie brands that can easily find its audience. Fenty, Charlotte Tilbury, Huda Beauty, Kylie Cosmetics, Pat McGrath, Kat Von D — the success of these brands lies in close contact with the audience. In 2018 indie brand Drunk Elephant has become one of the fastest growing, formed in 2014 today it is estimated at one billion dollars.

Megan Collins, an analyst with the Agency Trinder explains that in the existing reality, when life is endlessly displayed in a social network, companies and individuals interested in creating not just style and personal brand with a unique perspective. If the uniqueness is lost, it can destroy the brand, in which was invested a lot of effort.

Megan Collins also notes that the constant pursuit of uniqueness lies in the narcissism, which is developed today is stronger than ever. So let’s be objective, not only the producers play on the strong feelings, but first and foremost, the consumers, Reaffirming the axiom that demand creates supply.

Who today creates demand?

“Gen Y” — forever young

Installation on the theme of a room of Millennials, shown at the spring fashion week 2018 company GeminiByGemini.

Analysts at many agencies, examining the needs of the generations, come to the conclusion that the interests of Millennials differ significantly from a younger generation. But generation Y now makes up the most active audience of consumers — approximately 30%, forming the bulk of the demand in the market. However, they indirectly affect older and younger generations.

In fact, Millennials are not only the people who overcame the barrier between millennia, but those who managed to live two different times “before the Internet” and “after”. Now they (we) are daily exposed to the most powerful bombardment of the trends, hype and innovation. For the Millennials, who experienced the difficulties of growing up in a time of crisis, which opened a new world of endless possibilities is perceived as a long-awaited candy. Generation Y does not want to remove the rose-colored glasses to see the real-world problems, and manufacturers are happy to use, influencing the two most difficult aspects of the turning point generation “castigators” and the desire to be young forever.

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“Gen Z” — the impossible is possible

According to studies, the younger generation Z (centenary) is not so self-absorbed and gullible as the Millennials. In the future, this means that companies in the fashion industry and beauty will have to work hard developing new marketing ploy, because Zeta already, or demonstrate some detachment from the trends of, or opposition to them.

The list of brands that are trusted by different age groups. According to the research company Ypulse.

While today at the age of 10-15 years, the generation Z speak out for equality of women and men, legalizing same-sex marriage, discrimination against transgender people, but also very concerned about the environmental situation in the world. Apple, the parent company of the idol of Millennials did not even hit the top ten valued “Zeta” brands. In addition, Centinela full of surprises — according to Fluent Commerce, despite the love for new technology, 25% of gen Z prefer to go to actual stores or use old browsers.

While intelligence world agencies work tirelessly, studying the interests of the young audience, children, actors, models and celebrities at the age of 10-12 years are under the close supervision of major brands, to 13 become the ambassadors of a new generation. Brand endlessly compete in creativity and test new ideas. Nars, L’occitane, MAC, Chanel, Elizabeth Arden and many other companies regularly go beyond the usual and offer their own coffee, art workshops, machines beauty stores or joint planting of the trees. Of course in the near future we can expect a lot impressive.

New standards — we create them or they us?

Left: advertising campaign Gucci 2003, photographer Mario Testino, art-Director Tom Ford. Right: the meme Gucci 2017 for the campaign #TFWGucci, curator Alessandro Michele, illustration-reproduction paintings of John William Godward.

New needs of audience like to visualize new ideals of beauty, which more naturalness and freedom. Anorexic models focus on the objectification, retouch to the state porcelain statues — all this still exists, but is no longer considered normal and is condemned. Progress is not easy, but the breakthroughs on the way to reality happen on a regular basis, unfortunately more in foreign markets, but not in Russia. For example, Revlon, Neutrogena, Rimmel, L’oréal, Maybelline and other companies on demand CVS (American pharmacy chain) has committed to cease any and all use of the postprocessing of the digital images at the point of sale pharmacies, by 2020. However, it is naive to believe that producers will cease to play on our weaknesses and complexes.

Left: advertising campaign Dolce & Gabana 2007. Right: ad campaign Dolce & Gabana 2018.

In 2017 Allure magazine called on the industry to end the word “anti-aging”. It turned out, and again suddenly that infinite antiage brain is derogatory for women. And why, in the end, so fanatical fight aging if this is the natural process, at least science has not yet discovered the secret of eternal youth. Indeed, in 2019, antiac is not so Intrusive looks at us with labels for cosmetics bottles. Instead, delicately and quietly the whole beauty world went on uninterrupted radiance and freshness of the skin. Young skin naturally. But it is better to say healthy and acquiring multivitamin complex ????

In April last year a resource published an article which raised the issue of the skin condition as a socially significant standard. Imperfect skin is considered as an example of the needs of people to create landmarks “right/wrong” of morally neutral things. Considering the wealth as a reward for a job well done and well lived life, too great a temptation to define perfect skin (and other attributes of wealth) proof of virtue. It seems that the skin with acne is not a moral flaw, but is associated more with poverty.

Amanda mull, the author of the resource in January 2019 launched this idea in more detail.

Therefore, if you eat well, exercise and have a basic set of cosmetics — you will save yourself from premature aging and retain a decent look. But this strategy doesn’t even come close to compare with the capabilities of the wealthy. Using “healthy” glow strong world manufacturers, fashion magazines and the entire beauty industry continue to support the cult of perfect people. And buyers continue to believe that you can, and most importantly, must achieve perfection for a nominal $50.

We sell the bottle or the effect?

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Timothy Caulfield, Professor, University of Alberta, and research fellow of the Canadian Academy of health Sciences, in his book based on the advice of the celebrities describes an experiment to improve the skin. With the help of a special device in the office of a cosmetologist, he found that he has a skin condition assessed as good “less wrinkles than 95% of the population”, while a very bad time. Then on the recommendations proposed used in cosmetics to improve the skin condition.

To check the result, Timothy went to another hospital and checked the condition of the skin on the same device. Even with the error of the instrument the result is impressive — “the skin condition worsened on four of the eight evaluation criteria, including the structure and all the important features of wrinkles, according to two criteria (including pores) assessment has changed slightly”. After the examination, Timothy was recommended to buy new cosmetic products in the amount of $500.

This begs the question, what are the real benefits of investments in purported skin improvement? And how to evaluate if to get away from subjective assessments like “the skin looks better”, which are often prolonged action of effective marketing?

Downloadable survey….

We used to rely on scientific data, but cannot fail to recognize that most studies are initiated by manufacturers of cosmetics, not independent companies. In addition, in our information environment, there is almost no criticism of cosmetic products, therefore, overstated promises, and outright deception of the manufacturers seem to us a matter of course. We are not confused rant about a 12-fold increase eyelash hydrated in 10 times more the skin or matte lipstick that is not matte. Although half of the advertising slogans are on the verge of the absurd, we continue to either ignore, or are happy to be deceived by them. And continue to buy.

The results of the study on the impact on consumers of advertising with sexual overtones, posted on the resource say: there is a significant positive effect on response from advertising, but in insignificant brand awareness. Simply put, from the influence of the anchor effect to the purchase in the corner of the brand you are insured 🙂

For a General understanding, look at how many have earned the largest market players on our weaknesses in 2018 ????

  • L’oréal: income of €26 million (+4,8%) for a profit of €3.58 billion (+15,3%)
  • LVMH: revenue — €46,8 billion (+10%) for a profit of €6.4 billion (+18%)
  • Johnson & Johnson: revenue of € 81.5 billion (+6,7%), profit € 15.29 billion

Downloadable survey….

And what in Russia?

For the Russian market in 2018 was not the best. On the activities of foreign companies impact of sanctions, the uncertainty in political relationships and falling incomes. The overall activity of foreign brands in Russia was the lowest for the last 6 years. Should I wait on background statistics of the increase of posts about the Suite on the.? Don’t know.

According nads, despite the increase in the volume of electronic sales ($13,54 billion) and the number of orders (589,6 million), the average bill in electronic purchases continued to fall and amounted to 3000 rubles. for the Russian market and $9 for international (crossborder) trade. For comparison, in 2015, these figures were — 3600 rbl. and $18, respectively.

According to the National Association of remote trade.

According to mail of Russia crossbordering the number of parcels has already exceeded 30%, which is reflected on us by introducing new duties on the shipment. From January 1, 2019 tax-free threshold for purchases in foreign online stores cut in half, to €500.

The turnover of the cosmetics market in 2018 amounted to about 600 billion rubles. The average inhabitant of Russia spends 1150 RUB per year on cosmetics, which is comparable to the costs of the Italians. We were overtaken by the Japanese, the Brits and inhabitant of Venezuela with an average annual spending of $60.

If you move away from the dry language of numbers and look at the overall development of the industry, it is little consolation. Global trends come to us with difficulty, freedom and innovation will not win endless collection of “five best products” in glossy magazines. We do not produce indie brands, and even a few Russian cosmetics companies continue to purchase raw materials abroad. The biggest news of 2018 can be counted on the fingers:

  • happened the long-awaited opening of stores Sephora in Russia
  • closed one of the largest Russian online stores
  • took place in all senses of the controversial launch of a line of cosmetics Elena Krygina
  • Organic Kitchen the customers were pleased with the collaboration with Russian bloggers, which appeared not only successful products, but also a little familiar to buyers of the product sizes.

Downloadable survey….

The advertising companies, things are not that optimistic. In the field of beauty most brands relies on proven techniques, not especially trying to be creative. Sometimes it leads to scandals, far beyond Russia.

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January 2019: make-up artist Polina Petrova has posted in my instagram story with a comparison of the advertising companies NYX Cosmetics — the original and Russian version where taped over the face of California’s blogger Wesley Benjamin Carter.

If we talk about Russian advertising market in General, the situation is even worse, especially when it comes to women’s social roles. Even large organizations do not see anything terrible in sexist advertising campaigns and objectification. Russian society is in General not very committed to understand the modern global currents than periodically and enjoy some company.

December 2016: new year (!) the is credit Bank of Moscow in which a woman is dragged on a rope through forests and mountains because she worked hard and had little time for the child. Despite the flurry of condemnations the movie is still on the company channel.

Sometimes “creativity” of the advertising campaign takes radical forms, the message of which the user to understand not. Sometimes a foreign mark and its representative office in Russia can promote seems to be the same, but very different ways. And instead of subverting stereotypes in the thinking of the majority are happening an unplanned reaction.

February 2019: advertising project Reebok #bemorehuman adapted for the Russian market project #newsacadamy. Image with Zalina Marshenkulova (right) is now removed from the advertising campaign because of the barrage of criticism from consumers.

Global trends 2019

Shooting for Flacon magazine without retouching, 2018.

Finish the conference still optimistic ???? Global trends in the cosmetic field, encouraging openness and consistency.

???? Minimalism. And it would seem, where more? However, the trend applies not only to packages, but also the approach to care. Consumers less interesting shade 12-step treatment or contouring of the five funds at once. Everyone needs a real effect and ease in interaction with makeup.

???? Honesty. This trend follows logically from the previous one. Customers do not want feigned ethical brands, innuendo in the compositions or the beautiful marketing of legends, which you can justify overpriced products. They want maximum awareness.

???? Ampoules. Home care is becoming more custom and similar to cosmetic procedures, so — “Ampoule is the new black”. Several companies turned to the development of new products in the new format, for example, L’oréal in February manufactures ampoules Revitalift.

???? Balance. This trend is partly caused by the greater pressure of information, and therefore stress. We all need relief from the endless white noise. So in 2019 worth the wait promote treatments for relaxation of body and soul, based on Ayurveda, aromatherapy or herbs.

???? Sustainability. Definitely a huge production volume of the cosmetic market are concerned, and buyers, manufacturers. Presumably, 2019 will be a very active year in terms of new environmental initiatives.

Spring in the US and France will launch an online platform Loop, which will help the customers to switch to reusable containers. Manufacturers lay great hopes on it and I guess that soon everything from food to shampoo can be packaged in packaging that can withstand up to 100 uses. Further, all vials, boxes and containers to be given to the processing together with the remaining content on the same platform. To use the services of the platform have expressed their desire many big brands Tide, Gilette, Nestle, PepsiCo, P&G, Unilever, L’occitane and others. According to the developers, in the end, everything will depend on the reaction of consumers. And even if Russia will not come, I hope it will be the first global step to clean up the oceans.

If you missed our previous conference about the life of bloggers, it can be found here.

That’s all ????

Share your thoughts and hopes

about the future of beauty in the world ❤

View poll results: How would you rate the effect of the majority’s skin funds used? 22% See the real effect, which justifies the cost of the products. 20 20% Most rest on the efficiency, but investments aren’t worth it. 18 59% Satrudays reply, the effectiveness of different media is very different. 54 poll Results: How do you assess the influence of advertising on their purchases? 11% I would like to think that at me is not affected, but in fact I do the majority of purchases, yielding beautiful promises. 11 54% are Guided only by their needs, has long ceased to pay attention to any advertising promises. 52 34% All depends on my mood or level of income of a particular day of the purchase. 33 poll Results: How has your budget for beauty expenses for the last 3 years? 36% of the Revenues only fall, we have to buy products at affordable price more often than we would like. 31 14% are Buying luxury and expensive cosmetics, I think it is a good investment at any level of income. 12 49% of My purchases are not particularly tied to changes in income, I’m buying mood. 42

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