New ingredients – the driving force of the cosmetic industry


In this article we will introduce you with the most current trends in the production of cosmetic ingredients which have appeared on the market of the beauty industry in recent years.

The content of the article:

  • Ingredients for endocannabinoid receptors
  • Organic glitter – the solution for sustainable development
  • Cosmetic ingredients to the skin microbiome
  • New substances in sunscreen cosmetic products
  • SymTrap represents a new generation of ingredients with low carbon footprint
  • Biotechnology – an alternative to the classic cosmetic ingredients
  • Natural ingredients replace synthetic

Ingredients for endocannabinoid receptors

Recently became in demand cosmetics, which is based on the active ingredient – cannabidiol (CBD). Its production is actively involved in the company Hallstar, Extracts Unlimited, oil cannabidiol and more traditional hemp seed oil Arista Industries supplies. It should be noted that the various derivatives of cannabidiol is still coming to the market, to meet the needs of brands seeking to create products that meet world standards, and also help brands to Express the benefits of their products related endocannabinoid system (biological system that plays an important role in the human body and is responsible for the physical and psychological effects of cannabis). However, the industry still there are certain legal difficulties in regard to the regulation of cosmetics based on hemp.

The beauty of cannabis at the border of law and efficiency

For example, the company Beraca produces ingredient “Wellness and anti-stress properties” called Beracare CBA Cannabinoid Active System. The substance is a complex of natural oils derived from plant material collected in the Amazon region of Brazil. This component is positioned as a “safe alternative to the CBD with applications in various cosmetic products such as tonics, lotions, gels, creams, Soaps”.

Organic glitter – the solution for sustainable development

Dangerous glitter and other sparkles, are made of metal and plastic, in cosmetic products, the eco-activists can only be microparticles of plastic, which is already banned in many countries. However, the manufacturers of cosmetics have decided and this problem, taking care to make the glitter biodegradable, compostable, and otherwise safe for the environment.

In particular, American Glitter produces two innovative solutions. Celluglit made from wood pulp, which, according to the company, decomposes in the water, and also a component Glinature on the basis of corn that is biodegradable, but still requires a certain chemical exposure to degradation. Other popular solutions in the industry, it should be noted the product Bluesun International – biodegradable cosmetic glitter made from viscose and glycerine derived from plant material.

Stability is the main trend in the production of ingredients

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Cosmetic ingredients to the skin microbiome

Care of the skin microbiome is another current trend in the market, require the production of unique components. So, the German manufacturer of ingredients CLR have demonstrated 2 probiotic component for skin care: ProRenew Complex CLR and ProBioBalance CLR NP. ProRenew Complex CLR (Lateococcus ferment lysate) “based on probiotic technology… and affect the speed and quality of growth of the epidermis,” according to the statement of Shada Makhmalbaf, cosmetic chemist and Vice-President for technical sales in the CLR. ProBioBalance CLR NP – water, lactose, milk protein and spina bifida ferment lysate is a suspension of probiotic cultures in a biologically active matrix based on milk.

The company Amerilure bet on rosemary extract as beauty ingredient for microbiome: “Maintain the balance of the microbiome of the skin with the natural antimicrobial properties of rosemary”. Solabia and urged participants “to make your ecosystem happy with solutions that are beneficial for microbiota” by submitting your ingredient SansiScalp (to protect against dandruff, sensitive scalp and hair), and also showed BioEcolia, EcoSkin and Teflose as other care options for microbiome.

Skin care – unlimited opportunities for innovation

The company Bitop has developed the Natural ingredient Ecotin primarily with protection against oxidative stress, as well as advantages of the recovery (protection against pollution, blue light) and anti-inflammatory effect, which positively affects the state of the microbiome.

New substances in sunscreen cosmetic products

AH and NS, ingredients supplier with headquarters in Japan have developed a pineapple ceramide, has brightening properties, can strengthen the skin structure and improve skin texture after sun exposure. Most interesting among this new category of ingredients is an amplifier of melanin called Epsiline from French biotech company Greentech. The new ingredient will catalyze the process of amelogenesis, effectively preparing the skin for sun exposure and prolonging the color and the shining sun.

Epsiline is a marine ingredient prepared from the red microalgae, found in a French lagoon Tau, which is called porphyridium cruentum. Algae secretes a sulfated polysaccharide matrix as part of their survival strategies; and it is these sugars (after treatment) provide an effect that extends the sun. Applications of this substance include but also go beyond the traditional means to care for the sun.

SymTrap represents a new generation of ingredients with low carbon footprint

Last year, Symrise presented SymTrap – extraction method, which allows to produce perfume ingredients based on by-products generated in the food industry. This sustainable toilet technology expands the palette of the original, amazing ingredients.

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To reduce the carbon footprint of its raw materials, Symrise has developed SymTrap, the method that is to capture the aromatic molecules contained in aqueous solutions obtained by extraction, distillation or lyophilization plants and fruits. In this process, the resin, which is washed with alcohol, turns into SymTrap, new ingredient, which is different from the essential oil low impact on the environment. Ingredients SymTrap obtained as a result of increasing the value of by-products based on the technology, requiring no heat, no chemicals, provide extremely low carbon footprint.

Biotechnology – an alternative to the classic cosmetic ingredients

Biotechnology (the use of specially modified micro-organisms on an industrial scale) for over a decade is a method of manufacturing cosmetics and personal care products. The components obtained by biotechnological production is often cleaner, more sustainable and effective than those obtained from petrochemical products or directly from the cultural as well as wild plant and animal sources.

DNA changes – effective approach to the manufacture of new components

Biotech ingredients are produced by microbes, often by bacteria, yeast or algae, which have undergone changes in the DNA, so their metabolic process leads to the formation of commercially viable molecules. After a sample of a microorganism collected and edited, the producers of the ingredients are usually stored and propagated edited germs in the library of a sort, so there is no need to replenish them from some external source.

One of the new biotechnological components in the cosmetics market is a product of Mibelle biochemistry the ingredient for skin care called IceAwake. This substance that can improve the condition of skin, impaired by lack of sleep, produced by bacteria found in the soil, previously frozen under the glacial ice in the Swiss Alps. According to the International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients in IceAwake include succinic acid, maltodextrin and water.

Also recently, Givaudan announced Amborfix, version, Ambrox or Ambroxide manufactured by fermentation of cane sugar. In the fermentation process is the yeast play an important role. And Givaudan explains that the new molecule flavor 100% natural origin and biodegradable. The company is also proud of Ambrofix “requires a hundred times less land to produce one kilogram of the new ingredient compared to the traditional method of production,” according to a press release of the new ingredient.

Geltor produces collagen with the help of biotechnology, in particular, the company can produce protein without raw materials of animal origin. One of the products of the company HumaColl21 identical to the human protein collagen, already used in cosmetics for skin care, produced by the AHC. The company recently signed an agreement with Connell on the spread of Halal collagen in the Asia-Pacific region.

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The list of biotechnological cosmetic and perfume ingredients includes butyleneglycol from Genomatica; squalane – Amyris; lactones – Conagen. Currently, all these projects involve the conversion of carbon dioxide to the components of personal care products using biotechnology. All biotechnological cosmetic ingredients referred to here, contain carbon, and the production of each of them supposedly has less impact on the environment than the production or obtaining bioidentical or similar ingredients.

Natural ingredients replace synthetic

Currently, investments to grow natural ingredients to replace synthetic chemicals in cosmetics and personal care products. Natural ingredients was first used as a carrier oils or active ingredients, but there is a new generation of natural cosmetic ingredients.

In the cosmetic sector using traditional natural ingredients such as fats, oils, and botanicals, but now there are natural preservatives, surfactants, emulsifiers and chemicals on a biological basis.

As for the surfactants, in the past year, Croda has introduced its series of environmentally friendly surfactants bio-based, made from renewable raw materials. The company has established a specialized production enterprise in the state of Delaware, USA, for the production of green surfactants. Other companies such as Seppic Lubrizol and are also surface-active substances, made from natural ingredients, while Clariant has a range of green surfactants GlucoTain made from plant sugars.

Industry reinvents natural ingredients

A wide range of natural preservatives also available now. DuPont recently introduced Neolone preservatives are designed for companies that want to use environmentally friendly raw materials. And in January the European Union has approved the use of salicylic acid as preservative.

Another recent achievement in the field of natural ingredients are the new environmentally-friendly materials that replace traditional ingredients based on petrochemicals. So, Covestro introduced polyurethanes bio-based as a natural alternative to traditional resins and EFP Biotek offers a range of eco-friendly materials that replace the silicones, petrolatum and lanolin in the composition.

This trend provides an opportunity for suppliers of natural ingredients in developing countries. A wide range of natural ingredients has already received from Africa, Asia and Latin America, including Shea butter, palm oil, jojoba oil, essential oils and Botanical ingredients.

Large companies such as L’oréal, creating the supply chain of natural raw materials, working directly with manufacturers. However, manufacturers in developing countries must be ready to adopt ethical sourcing and sustainability standards. The use of natural ingredients in cosmetic products increases as the requirements of customers

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